The Curious Cook: In Salts, a Pinch of Bali or a Dash of Spain
WHENEVER I’m flying home and the plane passes over the south end of San Francisco Bay, my eyes can’t linger long enough over its startling patches of orange and red.
They’re sea salt ponds, cultivated to produce pure snow-white sodium chloride for industry and for the table. The colors in the ponds come from unusual microbes that thrive in the evaporating brine and produce pigments to cope with the intense sunlight.
A few months ago I finally encountered the colors of that briny life up close, in a jar of salt from the Murray River region in southeastern Australia. The remains of salt-loving bacteria and algae give the crystals a beautiful pink blush and a faint, pleasant aroma.
These days, salts come from all over the world, in many hues and crystal forms and textures. But this welcome blizzard is borne on a whirlwind of obfuscatory hype. A gritty rock salt from Utah styles itself “nature’s first sea salt,” blasted as it is from the geologic remains of an ancient ocean. Despite being a mineral and thus inorganic by definition, a sea salt from New Zealand has somehow been certified as organic. Evocatively named “Himalayan” salt is likely to come from mines around 900 feet above sea level, in the Salt Range of northern Pakistan, about 100 miles south of the Lower Himalayan range.
We now have “selmeliers” to expound on the flavors and textures of all these salts, the terroir of rock salts and the “meroir” of sea salts.
And the salt expert and purveyor Mark Bitterman has called into question the palates of the many chefs and cookbook writers who routinely recommend the use of kosher salt, which he views as an industrial, soulless product that tastes bad. In his recent book “Salted,” an entertainingly opinionated, frustratingly undocumented tour through the new world of salts, Mr. Bitterman offers vivid tasting notes. He describes the flavor of pink Murray River salt, for example, as “distinct sunshine sweetness; tingle of warm minerals.”
And the flavor of kosher salt? “Metal; hot extract of bleach-white paper towel; aerosol fumes.”
Is this just hyperbole from a seller of artisanal salt? Or is it true that pure salt can have other flavors beyond simple saltiness? And can less refined salts taste so much better that they might be worth a hundredfold multiple in price?
These aren’t new questions for cooks, but at last sensory scientists have taken an interest and run careful taste tests to answer them. It seems as if most salts taste pretty much the same, but no salt, even the most pure, is merely salty.
Culinary salts generally come either from the oceans or from solid underground deposits of ancient seas. Both sources contain many different minerals, but the predominant one is sodium chloride. Most standard table salt is produced by injecting water into mines to dissolve the minerals, heating the brine to evaporate the water, and then handling the minerals as they precipitate to separate sodium chloride from the others, which generally have a bitter taste. Table salt is more than 99 percent sodium chloride.
Sea salts are produced from ocean water, either by slow evaporation in shallow ponds to make what is known as solar salt, or by rapid boiling over high heat.
Both kinds of salt may be made on artisanal or industrial scales, and both can end up more or less refined (more or less pure sodium chloride) depending on countless details of the process. The least refined sea salts, with the largest proportions of other minerals and moisture, are gray and clumpy rather than white and free-flowing. Flakes of highly regarded fleur de sel, or flower of salt, are harvested from the surfaces of salt ponds.
If salt crystals develop while submerged in brine, they turn out compact and solid, like the cubic crystals of table salt. If they develop at the surface of the brine, they form flat flake-like masses or hollow pyramids.
Categories: Foods Tags: Bali, flavors, Mark Bitterman, Murray River, New Zealand, produce, questions, Salt Range, San Francisco Bay, Spain
Bali profits from business of soul-searching
Being a Hindu yogi once meant renouncing worldly pleasures for a life of solitary meditation, wandering the jungle in search of union with god.
Today, new-age yogis wander the globe from one retreat to another, stay in luxury hotels and preach to the converted masses through a headset microphone.
At the Bali Spirit Festival last week, yogis sold their take on life - along with complementary DVDs - as visitors from as far afield as the United States, Australia and Europe lapped up expensive yoga apparel, mats and mala beads. Just stepping through the festival gates cost $ 100 a day.
“I bought a gold pass for $ 500 and I find it hard to get $ 100 worth of yoga a day. At the same time, all the classes have been amazing, so in the end, I’m happy to have paid that,” said Australian Jean Cameron, 39.
A 2008 study published by the Yoga Journal valued the yoga industry in the United States alone at almost $ 6 billion a year, with some more recent estimates for the global industry rising to $ 18 billion.
Bali is an obvious hub for yoga fanatics. The Balinese are Hindu, the Indonesian island is rich with natural beauty and the government supports spiritual tourism including temple tours and visits to traditional healers.
Demand for such experiences spiked recently with the publication of Elizabeth Gilbert’s best-selling memoir “Eat, Pray, Love” - a romantic journey of self-discovery featuring a mystical encounter with a Balinese soothsayer.
Uma Inder, a Hatha yoga teacher, has witnessed the radical transformation of yoga in Bali. She moved from England to the island 22 years ago, spending her first seven years practising yoga alone in the jungle.
“In those days you didn’t talk about yoga and no one really knew about it. Nowadays, it’s a social buzz. It’s now talked about, it’s paraded and it’s very much about entertainment,” Inder said.
Festival organiser Meghan Pappenheim makes no apologies for the commerciality of the event, and sees it as a positive way to draw more people to yoga.
“I’m the first to admit I’m an entrepreneur, I’m a capitalist. This event has a target market, and those are the people with the money who can go home and make a difference,” she said.
“My philosophy is that you make money and then you give it away. You make enough to buy a phone and a nice car, and you give the rest away.”
Only four years old, the festival itself is yet to turn a profit. But Pappenheim and her Balinese husband, Kadek Gunarta, say they have used the yoga boom to raise $ 36,000 for charity through various events.
The festival has a sponsor, Fiesta condoms, which donated $ 25,000 for an HIV/AIDS outreach programme for Balinese high school students.
So far, Pappenheim and her husband have funded the festival from money they make from a small empire of businesses, which include a yoga centre, an art gallery, an eco-friendly furniture studio and a cafe.
Pappenheim is optimistic that the festival too will become profitable as attendance numbers double annually. This year, she estimates 4,000 people participated.
Categories: Health & Fitness Tags: Bali, Bali Spirit Festival, business, event, first, From, give, industry, Meghan Pappenheim, profits, soulsearching, United States, Yoga Journal
Skin Is (Still) In
Trend tracking
March 29, 2011 2:18 pm
Calvin Klein hosted its Fall presentation this morning at the company’s 39th Street headquarters. Kevin Carrigan, the brand’s global creative director, was feeling jolly, not only because he’s headed to Bali for a break later this week, but also because revenues for the Calvin Klein business were way up for the fourth quarter last year. Walking us around the installation, he said, “It started with skin.” As in a second-skin jersey turtleneck (a hot item on the Fall runways) and faux animal skins ô la this snake pattern top and pants outfit, the collection’s strongest look. Python just won’t quit. We saw it on the Spring catwalks, and it slithered its way down plenty more for Fall; see Prada, Dries Van Noten, and Bottega Veneta. It can be a pricey trend to latch on to, which is where Carrigan and his head-to-toe prints ($ 69 for the top and $ 89 for the harem pants) come in.
tags: Calvin Klein, Kevin Carrigan
Categories: Fashion Tags: 2011, Bali, Bottega Veneta, Calvin Klein, company, Dries Van Noten, Fall, jersey, Kevin Carrigan, Skin, Spring, Still
Interview with The St. Regis Bali Resort Chief Butler
Luxury Travel Magazine interviews Carlos Costanzo, Chief Butler of The St. Regis Bali Resort, for his best insider tips.
Why should travelers visit your destination and your hotel right now? What is new and exciting?
The St. Regis Bali Resort is by far the most luxurious hotel on the Island. A balance between nature and delicate accents of exclusivity is found carefully laced throughout our entire Resort, resulting in sheer bliss to our guest’s experience. The St. Regis effect overtakes your senses from the moment you alight from your air craft and step onto this magical land. I have an entire team employed to make sure our Bespoke Service retains its legendary status on this Island.
What unique experiences and special access can you provide to your guests outside the hotel to make their visit most memorable?
An example of what we can provide is, if a guest is booked outside our Hotel for dinner or an event, our staff will be regularly checking into their journey to the venue, ensuring as well that the establishment’s management is personally awaiting their arrival to escort them to their designated table. I am known to ring ahead to the owners in order to ensure an outstanding and memorable experience.
We do work alongside the most exclusive service providers on the Island – all that we recommend must be premium class. Our La Boutique is an example of what we would like our guests to be surrounded by – simply the best!
What are the most worthwhile sights and activities at your destination?
Bali is a land of lush forests, tropical climate, and pristine beaches touched by the warm Indian Ocean. Volcanoes tower over the island landscape, rising above clouds and rice fields to form intricate patterns on the hillsides. The St. Regis Bali Resort is just a drive away from the Ubud Art Village, a prominent center for fine arts, dance and music that allures art collectors. For a more spiritual experience, journey to the Pura Besakih Temple, the largest of the island’s 11,000 Hindu temples. A personal St. Regis Butler or the resort concierge will be happy to direct guests to all destinations, provide a car transport, or to make special arrangements for activities such as watching dolphins at dawn, diving or snorkeling.
What are the top restaurants?
When a guest is asking for recommendations, I would tend to carefully consider their requirements, likes and dislikes before sending them off to the horizon. More often than not, we would recommend a restaurant based on the choice of menu, dietary restrictions and ambiance of the establishment. The best restaurants always manifest itself with sheer customer satisfaction, a mere reflection of their reputation on this Island. The one dining experience that can never be overlooked, if I may say so myself, is Kayuputi at The St. Regis Bali resort which is Asian infused Haute Cuisine that takes your senses to the third dimension.
Which unique shops and boutiques do you recommend?
Recommendations would be processed solely based on the guest’s individual needs. Guests tend to categorize amongst fine art, furniture and specific carvings.
Have new technologies affected how guests can interact with you?
We have an E-Butler address set up, so guests can make orders from their iPad or iPhone from wherever they are situated within our resort. I have had guests call me over to their villas with a simple e-mail so that I can pick up a prescription or make arrangements for their evening. Our resort offers wireless connection, and I find the guests interacting with me while they are relaxing at any area of the hotel.
What are some idiosyncrasies about your destination that visitors should know? Do you have any Do’s and Don’ts for travelers?
A traveler should always be aware of the culture they are about to experience. One should be mindful of the rituals and beliefs practiced here in Bali. If a visitor is going to a mall or shopping complex, be aware of where you stand and when you walk as the Balinese have a dedicated practice of placing ‘offerings’ on the floor, most often found close to an entrance of a shop. Bali is an Island of gentle, spiritual and kind souls and travelers should learn to integrate with the culture here.
What are some of the best requests you have fulfilled?
Arranging a surprise last minute check out within half an hour which involved full packing, airport transfer and aircraft confirmation ready for departure (it does help if you bring your own jet). Being a hopeless Latin romantic, surprise and romantic events are my favorites. I get a warm feeling through me each time the guests tries to fight back tears of joy. Best requests are those that are flawlessly executed – period!
What are some in-room surprises you can provide?
We have changed a villa into a fantasy pink surprise birthday dinner in less than two hours as the guest went out to buy curios at the local shops. Hundreds of balloons and wild and exclusive flower creations were placed all throughout the villa. An endless vision of electric candles lit up the villa, giving it the effect that you can only find in a film set! It took the birthday girl 20 minutes before she stopped crying and could express her joy in words. It was a moment that reconfirmed why we are here and why we are rumored to be the best.
Can you give us advice for tipping the Concierge for services rendered?
I often get asked the same question three times over in relation to tipping standards. I recommend guests to consider the service’s worth, instead of the local currency value.
If one of my staff has moved mountains for a surprise event and in turn had to change it all at the eleventh hour to something completely different and still managed to produce a flawless and magical experience – this should certainly reflect their gratuity. The entire world tips, it’s not just an American gesture, and this is a practice that has evolved over the years. A tip is a gesture of gratitude and authentic appreciation for a job well done.
Hotel Profile: The St. Regis Bali Resort[1]
References
- ^ The St. Regis Bali Resort (www.luxurytravelmagazine.com)
Categories: Travel Tags: Bali, Butler, Chief, dinner, event, exclusive, give, hotel, Indian Ocean, Interview, Regis, Regis Bali Resort, Resort, work
Balinese Traditional Cake
Traditional desserts are prepared for a ceremony or social gathering reminiscent of marriage ceremony celebration or Balinese birthday referred to as Otonan. Most truffles are comprised of rice flavor, sticky rice, or fruits. Balinese snacks are like western cereal, enjoyed in the morning with tea or coffee. Truffles can be found in conventional markets and fashionable food stalls. Ref: Bali Villas
BANTAL
Bantal, one among the most well-known, is produced from white sticky rice mixed with grated coconut and sugar. Purple beans or small slices of banana are filled inside the dough. It’s then wrapped in coconut leaf in sq. form and steamed. Bantal will be found in lots of ritual ceremonies and social events. Bantal is commonly served as a dessert in many modern restaurants in Kuta, Sanur, or Nusa Dua.
BATUN BEDIL/SALAK
Batun Bedil/Salak are constructed from rice flour blended with coconut milk. The dough is shaped like small a bullet after which boiled, served with grated coconut and melting brown sugar. This snack is banana leaf wrapped bought in traditional markets or in modern plastic wrapper offered in superstore. Ref: Bali Private Villas
BUBUH SUMSUM
Candy porridge, most favored by youngsters, is created from rice flour flavored with liquid produced from Pandan Arum palm leaf, creating greenish tone and tempting smell. Bubuh Sumsum is served with grated coconut and melting brown sugar.
BUBUH INJIN
Bubuh Injin is made out of black sticky rice boiled in a sweet coconut milk. It’s often served with jackfruit toppings.
BULUNG
Bulung, often known as Balinese pudding, is created from boiled white seaweed and brown sugar. One can eat it straight or blended in fruit salad.
DODOL
Dodol is actually found in lots of locations in Indonesia. In Bali, Dodol is wrapped in dry corn skin. This cake is comprised of sticky rice flour mixed with melting palm sugar. It’s steamed till it looks like mud and wrapped with dry corn pores and skin in small size.
GODOH
Godoh, fried banana, is one among the most popular afternoon or morning cakes. Dough-dipped banana is fried in coconut oil, often served with honey, godoh is normally enjoyed with espresso or tea within the morning. Godoh is served as dessert in some fashionable restaurant in Bali. If one like ice cream, s/he can put it above Godoh to create totally different flavor.
IWEL
Iwel usually is present in a ritual ceremony. This tender black cake is produced from steamed black sticky rice blended with grated coconut and palm sugar. It is then pounded and wrapped in coconut leaf. Iwel usually is sold throughout festive holidays like Galungan and Kuningan.
JAJA ULI
Jaja Uli, like iwel, jaja uli is widely during auspicious day like Galungan and Kuningan. Tradition says such an auspicious day won’t be full without this cake. Jaja uli is created from white sticky rice taste combined with grated coconut and white or brown sugar. It’s then steamed and pounded to make it mushy and easy to form: circle, triangle, square. Jaja uli is usually served with Tape Ketan, fermented white sticky rice.
KLEPON
A ball-shaped delicate cake made out of rice flour filled with palm sugar.
LAKLAK
Laklak, one famous snack in Bali, is steamed cake comprised of rice flour, slices of jackfruit, and coconut milk. Laklak appears like small white pancake. It’s normally served with grated coconut and melted palm sugar. Laklak is greatest eaten when it is hot.
LEPET BUGIS
Lepet Bugis, is banana leaf wrapped in constituted of sticky rice flour crammed with unti, grated coconut blended with melting brown sugar. Best when it’s served hot.
SATUH
Satuh seems to be like a compact snow in various shapes. Satuh is comprised of white sticky flavor and sugar. Satuh is a dry cake and it has strong sweet flavor. One often eat satuh with a glass of water.
SUMPING
Sumping, or naga sari, is a banana stuffed white comfortable made out of steamed rice flour, coconut milk, and sugar, normally wrapped in a bit of banana leaf.. Sumping typically be present in trendy restaurant as a dessert. Ref: Bali Luxury Villas
Categories: Foods Tags: Bali, bali luxury villa, bali private villas, bali villas, Batun Bedil Salak, Bubuh Sumsum, Nusa Dua, Pandan Arum, Ref Bali Private Villas, Ref Bali Villas, restaurant, social, SUMPING